Upcycling lessons from pioneering Finnish beauty brand Lumene

Although Finland experiences two months of darkness within the winter, it additionally two advantages from two months of glowing daylight within the summertime. As a consequence, most of the substances utilized in Lumene’s skincare product formulations profit from this uninterrupted daylight, so this was the thought course of behind the brand’s tagline: ‘beauty powered by arctic mild’.The distinctive arctic mild cycle creates unusually potent super-fruits – equivalent to arctic cloudberries – which in accordance with Lumene’s VP of R&D and Sustainability, Alain Mavon, is the brand’s ‘hero ingredient’ and could be “used as a pure various to retinol.”​The brilliant golden berry is a well-liked meals supply in Finland and accommodates twice as a lot Vitamin C as its equal weight of oranges.When utilized in its skincare formulations, this extraordinarily excessive focus of antioxidants works to scale back the influence of free radicals and brighten and energise pores and skin. It’s additionally a supply of vitamin E and a vitamin A precursor, plus it is anti-ageing resulting from its focus of ellagitannins, which assist to protect pores and skin’s collagen.“Inside the seed there’s this stunning orange oil with a aromatic scent​” shared Mavon, who defined that round 120kg of cloudberries are wanted to supply one litre of oil.Lumene’s newest launch utilizing this hero ingredient is Nordic-C [Valo] Triple Glow Radiance Elixir, an antioxidant serum with bio-engineered arctic cloudberry stem cell extract, nutritional vitamins C & E and encapsulated ferulic acid.95% substances upcycled from Nordic nature​And cloudberry isn’t the one upcycled ingredient the brand works with. Maven shared that round 95% of its substances are upcycled from Nordic nature.“For this firm, the idea has at all times been designing to get the perfect out of what’s out there. It has at all times tried to be zero-waste,”​ he stated.  It seems that Finland as a nation has at all times had a sustainable view of farming and managing its assets too, which implies that Lumene has to plan meticulously.“The choosing season for cloudberries is simply six weeks every year,” ​stated Maven. “While the natural birch sap is simply out there for 3 weeks in April.” ​He continued: “So we have to have sturdy planning and work carefully with numerous companions to get entry to those supplies.” ​The Finnish natural birch sap is one other pure nationwide treasure utilized by Lumene, as its wealthy in minerals, amino acids and hydrating sugars to go away pores and skin extra hydrated.The brand additionally formulates with lingonberries, which include quercetin that can be utilized as a skin-protecting antioxidant to agency pores and skin, assist delay ageing and assist to fade wrinkles and wonderful traces.These are all by-products of the meals business. As are the oats utilized in its delicate skincare vary. The breakfast-food staple is used to product xylitol, which is usually utilized in toothpaste, but in addition occurs to be an excellent moisturiser and prebiotic supply for pores and skin micro organism.  “We work with a meals firm known as Father and we use their leftovers for the oats,”​ defined Mavon.  And it seems that Lumene is not only utilizing these pure upcycled substances as a ‘advertising sign’ to make virtuous on-pack claims, as they’re utilized in excessive concentrations within the formulations.In reality, the brand is even utilizing water and juice from the berries within the formulations as a substitute of one other supply of water.   Most of the substances are sourced regionally, however not all the pieces. “We do that as a lot as we presumably can, however there are some substances we will’t create regionally.”​Eco-design at each step​Maven stated that Lumene additionally implements eco-design at each step of the product course of – from deciding on the substances to the top of lifetime of the product.The firm’s manufacturing unit in Espoo, Finland runs on 100% sustainable hydro-electricity and it has a WaterSmart program that reduces water consumption. The brand is heading in the right direction for all its skincare packaging to be 100%-recyclable by 2025 and is aiming to develop into Net Zero by 2050.Having its personal manufacturing unit helps the corporate handle its emissions, water consumption, recycling and retains the availability chain as native as attainable. Its additionally at the moment working in the direction of B Corp certification.It has not too long ago created extra eco-friendly packaging utilizing an oil by-product from the forestry business and it’s nonetheless working to enhance this.“There are two layers on this pack and subsequent yr we can have one layer,” stated Maven. “The pack will even be smaller however with the identical quantity of packaging. We will even cut back the secondary pack field, so we will put twice as many packing containers within the pallet.”​International growth ​For a few years the brand was a favorite amongst Finnish shoppers however not well-known internationally. Its concentrate on international growth is current and so 40% of its market is in Finland. However, it additionally sells into neighbouring Nordic international locations like Norway and Denmark, in addition to the UK, the place it’s bought in M&S Beauty.Mavon revealed that till 2022, 15% of its market got here from neighbouring Russia, however that the corporate determined to close these operations down when the nation went to warfare. Going ahead, the corporate will now concentrate on constructing its popularity within the new markets it has launched into and also will put a concentrate on travel-retail. It has not too long ago opened its first idea retailer at Helsinki Airport and its ranges are at the moment bought in 36 airport outlets and 32 cruise ships in a complete of seven international locations. Lumene additionally has loads of R&D plans different plans within the pipeline.  “We have funding and are at the moment partnered with different Finnish corporations to create an animal-friendly sort of wax made with bilberries as a substitute for beeswax, ​shared Maven. ​“We are additionally persevering with to work within the subject of biotechnology,” ​he stated. “And additionally doing extra testing as a result of we have now merchandise made from pure substances, so subsequently have to work more durable to show that they’re performing.”​      


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